Different Types Of Industrial Sewing Machine used in Mass Production

Most of the clothes we wear are sewn by sewing machines. There are several types of sewing machines used to make our clothes. When garment making was industrialized, scientists developed industrial power driven sewing machines to meet the needs of mass production. Semi-automatic and fully automatic machines were developed in different stages. Machines are classified depending of seam types, number of needle used, stitch classes, table bed etc. In the following list most of the machine those are used in garment making.

• Single/multi needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine with or without trimmer
• Blind stitch machine/Chain stitching machine.
• Flat lock machine (cylinder bed and flat bed)
• Over lock machine (3 threads/4 threads and 5 threads)
• Single/double needle chain stitch machine
• Zigzag flat bed sewing machine.
• Button stitch sewing machine.
• Button hole sewing machine
• Feed of Arm sewing machine
• Label/elastic inserting machine
• Bar tacking machine.
• Hemstitch machine.
• Pin tucking machine.
• Smocking machine / Automatic multi needle shirring machine
• Collar and cuff turning and blocking machine and pressing machine
• Shoulder pad-attaching machine

Tips To Reduce Sampling Time

Sample is the most important for each and every order. Delay in sampling effects in production shipment. Secondly, when sampling processes get delayed productivity of sampling department gets reduced. Merchants need to be involved in sampling for longer time for the same style. There may be hundreds of reasons for delay in sampling but still sampling time can be reduced by following tips mentioned below.

1. Be proactive- finish your backlogs, create capacity for fresh sampling, research for sourcing of sampling material. Even you can make directory for all available material in the sampling store for fabrics, trims, threads, laces, beads etc that can be used for initial sampling. If you know your buyer better you can be prepared for new season prior to getting sampling request.  
2. Make Time and Action calendar - Do planning for your sampling styles in details. Clearly note when to start a task and when to finish it. Mention name of the responsible person for the task.  Follow task according to the plan. Chase the person until the task gets finished. If something is getting delayed create alarm and seek help from others. Work with the goal to meet timeline for each task. No delay and no procrastination in task completion even you have enough time to submit your sample.
3. Work with checklist - List down a complete sequence of jobs to be needed for sampling. Start finishing task one by one. It will more effective if you prepare two check lists, one for daily To Do list and second one for style wise check list. Start work with daily to do List and update style wise checklist. Following this method with you can keep track of all your styles.
4. Critical path management - Identify jobs those are not dependent with each other and start parallel processing (sourcing, pre-assembling). This will reduce your sampling time and you can work on multiple samples at a time.
5. Inventory check – Prior to handing over work to sampling tailors, check everything is ready as per required quality and quantity. This will help you to reduce forward and backward communication. Secondly, sampling tailors will complete your samples at one go.  
6. Quality at First place- Approve quality and specification by yourself before proceeding for next step. It will eliminate rework level. If you use alternative quality for time constraint, inform it to your buyer prior to using it in sample.
7. Be prepared with alternative – whenever developing samples like lap dips, print strike off, embroidery work or bead work make multiple options. By alternative, in case buyer rejects your first sample you can quickly send alternative one. By this way you can reduce lot of time required for re-development.
8. Don’t believe in Guesswork - Don’t do any task if you have confusion. Communicate with your seniors or contact immediately to buyer for clarification.
9. Update your knowledge – technical knowledge about fabrics, current trends, and new development on your product line will give you additional advantage in quick start sampling.
10. Last but not the least, don’t miss any dead line. Chase your supplier, chase sourcing and sampling department constantly.

Thanks everyone

GARMENT WASHING

Dear All,
My today's Topic is Industrial Garment Washing. lets start with Definition.

Definition:-

  The technology which is used to modify the appearance, out look comfort-ability & fashion of the  garments is called garment washing.

WHAT IS THE PURPOSE OF WASHING/BEST WASH LOOK:

Purpose of washing/Best wash look is the best touch of a garment - This may be explained in the following way :-

Purpose of washing/Best wash look is the best touch of a garment - This may be explained in the following way :-

u Washing process of garment is done to create wash look appearance. After washing the garments create a new looks which seems the new touch of fashion.

u By the washing technique, faded/old look, color or tinted affect is created in the garments which also seem the best touch of garments.

Washing technique creates new fashion such as tagging, grinding, destroy, Blasting, whickering, permanent wrinkle, deep dye, tie dye, P. P spray, hand crapping, P.P spoonzing etc. Which also seems the best touch of garments?

u The main and important function of washing is to reduce size materials as a result the garment become size free and become soft hand feel.

u When these soft garments are touched then it seems to best touch of garments.

u To attraction the customers/Buyer by different types of Fashionable washing and market developments.

u Due to washing, shrinkage occurs in the garments. There is no possibility of further shrinkage of the wash garments.

u Any dirt, spot or germ if added in the garments during manufacturing is also removed due to washing.

 

TYPES OF WASHING

u Normal wash/Garments wash/Rinse wash

u Pigment wash

u Caustic wash

u Enzyme wash (Boi wash &Boi polishing)

u Stone wash

u Bleach wash (Ice wash& snow wash)

u Stone Enzyme wash

u Acid wash

u Silicon wash

u Sand Blasting & Hands scraping.

u P. P Spray

u Over all wrinkle

u Permanent wrinkle

u Tinting & Over dyeing

u Grinding & Destroy

u Broken & Tagging .

u P.P Sponging

u Dip Dyeing

u Tie & Dye .

u 3 D Crinkle ete.

 
To be Continued....

Thanks
Rumon Ahmed

Some Important Fabric faults, causes & remedies:

>>>Faults Name: Fabric Holes
## Causes:
a. Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
b. During loop formation the yarn breaks in the region of the needle hook.
c. If the yarn count is not correct in regarding structure, gauge, course and density.
d. Badly knot or splicing.
e. Yarn feeder badly set.

## Remedies:
a Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
b. Use proper yarn count.
c. Correct set of yarn feeder.
e. Knot should be given properly.

>>> Faults Name: Oil Stain
## Causes:
a. When oil fall on to the fabric by various reasons.

## Remedies:
a. Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
b. To maintenance very well.
c. As well as proper oiling.

>>> Faults Name: Rust Stain
## Causes:
a. If any rust on the machine parts

## Remedies:
a. If any rust on the machine parts then clean it.
b. Proper maintenance as well as proper oiling.

>>> Faults name: grease stain
## Causes:
a. Improper greasing
b. Excess greasing

## Remedies:
a. Proper greasing as well as proper maintenance.

>>> Faults name: drop stitch
## Causes:
a. Defective needle.
b. If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation that is not properly laid on to the needle hook.
c. Bad take up.
d. Insufficient yarn tension.


## Remedies:
a. Needle should be straight and well
b. Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation
c. Correct take up of the fabric and correct fabric tension
e. Yarn tension should be properly

>>> Faults name: dirt

## Causes:
a. There is too mach dirt on the knitting floor that is flying to and fro.

## Remedies:
a. By cleaning all types of dust continuously.


>>> Faults Name: Needle Line

## Causes:
a. When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics if a needle or needle hook is slight bends then needle marks comes on the fabric

## Remedies:
a. Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.

>>> Faults Name: Uneven Tension

## Causes:
a. If the sinker tension is not even then due to tension variation in the fabric one place to another place holes may create.

## Remedies:
a. Even tension of the sinker.

>>> Faults Name: Oil Line

## Causes:
a. Due to minimization of the creedle friction we have to use oil. Oil fall on fabrics & creates a line along the fabric length.

## Remedies:
a. Ensure that oil does not use excess for the maintenance.
b. After oiling ensure that oil does not falls on the fabric.

>>> Faults name: Thick & Thin place

## Causes:
a. This fault is responsible for yarn thick & thin place. Its appearance is like that one place of the fabric is thin & thick.

## Remedies:
a. Ensure that yarn is fine as well as no thick & thin place.

>>> Faults Name: Slub

## Causes:
a. Yarn may contain slub portion if we use this yarn then slub will come on fabric & keeps in fabric even after finishing.
b. This is mainly yarn fault.

## Remedies:
a. Ensure that yarn is fine as well as no slub portion in it. if we use this fabric in white color then slub prominence will be less.


>>> Faults name: sinker mark
## Causes:
a. When Sinker Carried due to abrasion then sometimes cannot hold a new loop as a result sinker mark comes.
b. If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.

## Remedies:
a. Sinker Should Be Changed

>>> Faults name: fly

## Causes:
a. In knitting section too mach lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.

## Remedies:
a. Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
b. By cleaning the floor continuously
c. By using ducting system for cleaning too mach lint in the floor.
d. Over all ensure that lint does not attach to the fabric.

>>> Faults name: pin hole

## Causes:
a. Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.

## Remedies:
a. Change the needle


b. Faults name: yarn contamination

## Causes:
a. If yarn contamination foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after finishing
b. If lot, count mixing occurs

## Remedies:
a. By avoiding lot, count mixing.
b. To less faults in the spinning.

>>> Faults name: Barrie

## Causes:
a. These faults comes from yarn faults
b. During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics
c. In draw frame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
## Remedies:
a. We can use this fabric in white color.

Grey GSM VS Finished GSM of knit fabric:

After receiving the yarn we knit the yarn in knitting machine for producing knit fabric. At this stage the fabric remains uncolored formed. We called this as Grey Fabric. Then we dye the grey fabric in dyeing winch (machine) as per our required color.

In this regards please note that, GSM of the followings Grey fabric are not remain same as our require finished fabric GSM. Normally the GSM of grey fabric remains lower than the finished fabric. After knitting when we dye and washed the fabric then the GSM increase and come to near as our requirement. This incensement of GSM depends on fabric constructions & some knitting variables. Let's see an example

Say,
Fabric Construction: Single Jersey
Yarn Count : 30/s
Require GSM(finished): 145 GSM
Grey GSM : will be what?

As per practical experience we know for Single Jersey fabric, if we knit the fabric with 30/s yarn then the grey GSM will increase 15% to 20% after dyeing and finishing.

So, if we need 145 GSM S/J fabric with 30/s
Then we should keep the

Grey GSM = 145 – (15 to 20%), supposed it the percentage will be 18 then
Grey GSM = 145 – 18%
Grey GSM = 119 GSM

So, now we know that, if we need 145 gsm single jersey fabric with 30/s yarn, then we should keep the GSM of grey fabric as 119.

Please find below the GSM different between Grey VS Finished for some more types of fabric.

For single jersey fabric:

If the yarn count is 30/s then the grey gsm will be 20% to 15% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 26/s then the grey gsm will be 22% to 20% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 24/s then the grey gsm will be 24% to 23% less from the finished Gsm

If the yarn count is 20/s then the grey gsm will be 24% to 21% less from the finished Gsm

Thanks,

wash Care Instructions

Count: Count Conversion Table

Count:
Count is the measure of fineness or coarseness of yarn.

Systems of Count Measurement
There are two systems for the measurement of count.
1) Direct System
2) Indirect System

1) Direct System
It is used for the measurement of weight per unit length of yarn.
When count increases, fineness decreases. ( count↑ fineness↓ )

Commonly used units in this system of measurement are:-
1) Tex ( 1 Tex = 1g/ 1000m )
2) Grex ( 1 Grex = 1g/ 10,000m )
3) Denier ( 1 Denier = 1g/ 9000m )

2) Indirect System
It is used for the measurement of length per unit weight of yarn.
When count increases, fineness increases. ( count↑ fineness↑ )

Commonly used subsystems of indirect system are:-
1) English System ( 1 Ne = 1 Hank/ lb )
2) Metric System ( 1 Nm = 1 Km/ kg )

For cotton yarn, length of 1 Hank = 840 yards.

 

count conversion Table:

 

Pls don't forget to post your valuable comments.

Work Study

Work Study is a common term for techniques used for the examination of human work and systematic investigation of all the factors which affect the efficiency of the process, in order to seek improvements.
Work study investigates the work done in an organization and aims at finding the best and the most efficient way of utilizing the available resources (man, material, money and machinery) to achieve best possible quantity and quality work in minimum possible time.
Work study which involves least possible time and causes least possible fatigue to the worker.

            Importance of work Study

•      To reduce unnecessary work or excessive work, reduce cost, increase profit and improve efficiency.

•      Maximum uses of resources.

•      Reduced additional expenditures.

•      Time reduce.

•      Productivity Increases.

•      To find the best method.

•      Set the standard time.

•      Smooth production flow with minimum interruption.

•      Reduce the cost of the product.

•      Reduction in rejection and rework.

coming next post regarding work study.........

LAB DIP

Lab dips are done to provide a visual aid on how a color will look when it is dyed. Your actual production sample will vary from the lab dip that is provided. Remember that the lab dip is produced in a beaker and is not an actual production run. It is not possible to lab dip enough fabric for a sample cap or garment. When the goods are dyed in a real production run, the conditions are dramatically different from the laboratory. Production will not begin on your fabric unless a lab dip is approved or the customer waives the lab dip process. Once a lab dip is approved, we will dye only to the lab dip approved. The original color swatch is no longer the target. Do NOT approve a lab dip that you would not be happy with as a production run.