What does ‘L’ Letter Stands after Button Size and Easy Calculation of Button size

‘L’ letter stands for Ligne (Button size code).
As defined by The free Dictionary Ligne is a linear unit  used to measure diameter of buttons. 1 Ligne equals to 1/40 inch.

Ligne is a French word.

Ligne is an international button size code/unit. For your quick reference button size chart has been attach below.

Buttons

another easy method of calculation:
10 mm = 16L

So, measure the button surface(Dia). if the measurement comes 17.5 mm,
calculation will be: 17.5 mm*1.6=28 L
Just simply multiply by 1.6 with Dia in mm.

Button Size Chart
Ligne Code	Button Dia in Inch	Button Dia in mm
10 L	0.25	6.4
14 L	0.35	8.9
16 L	0.4	10.2
18 L	0.45	11.4
22 L	0.55	14.0
24 L	0.6	15.2
26 L	0.65	16.5
28 L	0.7	17.8
30 L	0.75	19.1

Easy to Convert:

1 yard=0.9144 meter
1 meter=1.0936 yard
1 square meter=1.1960 square yard
1 square yard=0.8361 square meter
1 meter=39.37 inch
1 inch=2.54 cm
1 cm=0.3937 inch
1 gm=0.0353 oz
1 oz=28.350 gm
1 pound=453.6 gm
1 kg=2.2046 pound
1m/kg=0.4961 yd/ib
1 gm/square meter=0.0295 oz/square yd
1 oz/square yd=33.91gm/square meter
1 pound=0.4536kg
1 yd/ib=2.0159 m/kg
1 CN/tex=0.102 g/dtex

What is Marker?How to Calculate Marker Efficiency

What is Marker?

Mini Marker

A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread.

What is Marker Making?

Marker making is the process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and distribution of sizes . Factories those don’t have CAD system perform this process manually. In manual marker making to make an efficient marker one need time, skill and concentration. Now-a-day Marker making is mostly done by CAD systems which give accuracy, increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers.

What is marker efficiency?

Marker efficiency is defined as a ratio of area of marker used in a garment and area of total marker.

Marker efficiency is determined from fabric utilization, the percentage of total fabric that is actually used in garment parts.


Note: Marker efficiency and Fabric utilization is not same thing. In marker efficiency calculation fabric wastage due to end bits and end loss is not included but in fabric utilization calculation all kinds of fabric wastage are included.

How to calculate Marker Efficiency?

Calculation method of marker efficiency has been explained below with formula.

Formula#1

Marker efficiency% = (Area of marker used for garments / Area of total marker) * 100


Area of marker used for garments: In case of CAD marker, CAD system automatically calculates total area of garment pattern pieces placed in a marker. So you get area of marker that is consumed by garments from CAD system.

Total Marker Area: To calculate total marker area simply multiply marker length by marker width.

In manual marker it is difficult to measure surface area of garments patterns in a marker. You can use a mechanical device, Planimeter, to calculate the surface area of pattern pieces from outlines of the pattern pieces.

Another method can be practiced to calculate marker efficiency when you don’t have CAD system or Panimeter. Calculate ratio of weight of fabric consumed by pattern pieces and total weight fabric under total marker area. So a separate formula is used to find marker efficiency.


Formula#2

Marker efficiency% = (Weight of fabric consumed by patterns pieces in a marker / Total weight of fabric of under the marker area)*100

Weight of garment parts: To calculate weight of garment parts cut one layer of fabric according to markers and weigh all garment parts that are included in a marker.


Weight of marker total area: Measure weight of fabric (one layer) of total marker area.

SOME TEXTILE MILLS NAME IN BANGLADESH

1.ALLTEX INDUSTRIES LIMITED
2. ANLYMA YARN DYEING LIMITED
3. APEX ADELCHI FOOTWEAR LIMITED
4. APEX SPINNING & KNITTING MILLS
5. APEX WEAVING & FINISHING MILLS
6. ASHRAF TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED
7. BD DYEING & FINISHING INDS LTD
8. BEXIMCO SYNTHETICS LIMITED
9. BEXTEX LIMITED
10. CHICTEX LIMITED
11. CMC KAMAL TEXTILE MILLS LTD
12. DELTA SPINNERS LIMITED
13. DULAMIA COTTON SPINNING MILLS
14. DYNAMIC TEXTILE INDUSTRIES LTD
15. EAGLE STAR TEXTILE MILLS LTD
16. GMG INDUSTRIAL CORPORATION LTD
17. H.R.TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED
18. LEXCO LIMITED
19. LIBRA INFUSIONS LIMITED
20. M HOSSAIN GARMENTS WASHING & D
21. METRO SPINNING LIMITED
22. MITA TEXTILES LIMITED
23. MITHUN KNITTING & DYEING (CEPZ) LTD.
24. MONNO FABRICS LIMITED
25. ORION INFUSION LIMITED
26. PRIME TEXTILE SPINNING MILLS
27. RECKITT BENCKISER (BD) LIMITED
28. SAFKO SPINNING MILLS LTD
29. SAIHAM TEXTILE MILLS LTD
30. SAJIB KNITWEAR & GARMENTS LTD
31. SAMATA LEATHER COMPLEX LTD
32. SONARGAON TEXTILES LIMITED
33. SQUARE TEXTILES LIMITED
34. SREEPUR TEXTILE MILLS LIMITED
35. TALLU SPINNING MILLS LIMITED
36. TAMIJUDDIN TEXTILE MILLS LTD

                        37. ENVOY TEXTILES LTD

                        38. JAMUNA DENIM LTD

                        39. HANNAN TEXTILE

 

Types and Method of Printing

 PRINTING

Being a designer you may have multiple options to decide which printing techniques is most suitable for a specific design on the garment. Experienced designers choose printing method primarily on the basis final outcome as design sharpness, durability, brightness, texture and hand feel. Similar outcome can be obtained by multiple ways. In the sampling stage, printing cost might not be considered and designers get done sample printing with most convenient option. But as a designer you must consider which option will be most suitable for bulk production in terms cost of printing and production time.

As when a design comes for production, we need to consider many things to choose a particular printing method. Each printing method has advantages as well as disadvantages. So it is up to you which one to finalize as you are handling bulk printing. But important thing is final print outcome. When a contract is signed with buyer for a particular looks you can't alter it to save money. Still you can save if proper printing method is being chosen. Final outcomes mean hand feel, texture, brightness etc.
Most used printing methods are screen printing, heat transfer printing, direct print, cut out print, block print, boutique print. Each printing method has multiple ways of application. Like - pigment print, discharge print, transfer print, khadi print etc. For example, if you are going to print light color on dark base then discharge print is always advisable. Discharge print also gives soft hand feel. If you want bright white print on dark base (black) color then you have to choose khadi print instead of other options but hand feel is harsh in khadi print.


According to technology level screen printing it can be done in rotary printing, flat bed printing (manual or semi-automatic machine). Printing cost per garment will vary a lot comparing to each others. Other variables are production time and minimum production volume. Though your customer will specify the printing option before final order, you can advice them better option if you have clear knowledge about different printing methods and pros and cons of each one. In the following I have explained reasons why and when to go for any particular printing option.

Block Printing (Manual): For mass production block printing must be avoided. In case you need crafted look, demographic print and quantity is small then you can go for it. Only if specified by customer, hand block printing is taken as an option. Cost is high compared to screen printing.

Rotary screen print: Rotary print is suitable for allover prints, multiple color design, high volume and quicker production. Lot variation is less in rotary screen print comparing to flat bed. The cost of printing is calculated on the basis of fabric length print coverage. Here you can save money if you buy wider fabric. Printing can be done only fabric form. Printing on garment panels or on complete garment is not possible. Limitation is in design repeat.

Flat bed screen print: All over printing can be done in flat bed but only in manual as well as automated process where long table bed is used. Advantage is no limitation in design repeat. Chance of occurring lot variation, repeat over lapping when smaller screen is used, shade variation in the same pieces is high. Production is slow. For smaller quantity of fabric printing it is oaky. For garment panel printing flat bed screen printing is widely used.

Heat transfer print: Generally for small motif, brand logo, label print and swaraski print heat transfer printing method is used. This is very slow process. In this case printer need only heat transfer machine and paper printed with motif. Foil printing, also done in heat transfer method. For foil print you have no other option than heat transfer. It is very easy method. So, many garment manufacturer who need print logo or small motifs or stones, keeps heat transfer machine in-house. In this case, logos of patterns first printed on paper then transferred design to the garment using heat transfer machine.

Direct Print: A direct garment print is similar to inkjet desktop printer. This is not a good option for bulk printing. It has benefits in terms of design flexibility, quick print. It does not stiffen the fabric.

When it comes for consideration of hand feel, stiffness, print texture and aesthetic look then you have to choose out of the following options.

Discharge print: For soft hand feel, lighter print color on dark base discharge print is a good option. Disadvantage- getting exact color is quite difficult especially when colored discharge printing. It is very difficult to develop final color. Printer has to take extra care in this printing. Printing cost is similar to khadi and pigment print.

Pigment print: Widely used print for garment print and most economic. It is easy to develop color. Dye fixation is poor compared to other printing. If there is no specification then pigment print is advisable.

Khadi print: Khadi print used for hand block printing. When one needs to print light colors on dark base khadi print is a good option. In khadi print fabric printed pattern stiffen the fabric. For finer and sharp lines khadi print should be avoided. When printing done on screen, screen get chocked and need screen cleaning. It terms of application easy to print.

Foil print, flock print or Burnt out print: Foil print, flock print and burnt out print give special look on garments. So, when buyer specify for these types of printing then you have go for it.

A standard production file contains following items

1. Check list (production file) 
2. Technical sheet (Tech pack including measurement sheet) 
3. Production Order sheet (with color and size break up), cut plan and mini marker 
4. Comment sheets (comment received from buyer on each development samples) 
5. Approved PP sample with buyer comments 
6. Approved fabric swatches of all color ways. If there is any shade band it is also mentioned what lots are accepted and what are not accepted. If there is contrast color combination it is mentioned in the file. 
7. Approved Print strike off and embroidery strike off (if present in the style) 
8. Trim card (Trim card must contains approved sample of trims such button, lace, sewing thread, main label, acre label etc.) 
9. Post sewing processing details (washing, dry cleaning or dying) to be mentioned with final look. 
10. Packing specifications (if not mentioned in production order) 
11. Other specific information those are very important for the style quality – needle size to be used. 
12. A copy of Time and Action calendar (prepared by Production planning department) 
13. Copy of the PP meeting notes (Minutes of the Meeting of Pre-production meeting) 
14. FPT and GPT report (if available at the of PP meeting)
15. Ex-factory date – at what date shipment to be ready for final inspection and to be ready for the move to the port. 

Different Types Of Industrial Sewing Machine used in Mass Production

Most of the clothes we wear are sewn by sewing machines. There are several types of sewing machines used to make our clothes. When garment making was industrialized, scientists developed industrial power driven sewing machines to meet the needs of mass production. Semi-automatic and fully automatic machines were developed in different stages. Machines are classified depending of seam types, number of needle used, stitch classes, table bed etc. In the following list most of the machine those are used in garment making.

• Single/multi needle industrial lockstitch sewing machine with or without trimmer
• Blind stitch machine/Chain stitching machine.
• Flat lock machine (cylinder bed and flat bed)
• Over lock machine (3 threads/4 threads and 5 threads)
• Single/double needle chain stitch machine
• Zigzag flat bed sewing machine.
• Button stitch sewing machine.
• Button hole sewing machine
• Feed of Arm sewing machine
• Label/elastic inserting machine
• Bar tacking machine.
• Hemstitch machine.
• Pin tucking machine.
• Smocking machine / Automatic multi needle shirring machine
• Collar and cuff turning and blocking machine and pressing machine
• Shoulder pad-attaching machine